Retired Not Out, Paul Chappell's Journal

An Afternoon in Wakefield

24th July 2026

Waterfront by the Hepworth Wakefield

Wakefield Waterfront by the Hepworth Wakefield

Today I visited Wakefield, a place I haven’t been to for over twenty years. I caught the train from Marsden direct to Wakefield Kirkgate station, a 30-minute train ride.

The River Calder flows through the town on its way to the North Sea, so I headed there first. The Hepworth Wakefield is located on the main bend of the river, close to the station. I quickly found a footbridge across the river, connecting the Hepworth car park to the Hepworth. I took the photos above and below from this bridge.

Usually, when you visit a waterfront in a town, there are paths along it; not so in Wakefield. I looked, but could not find any obvious ones or signs pointing to one. No maps. So, I gave up, walked past the Hepworth, to the main road and caught the free bus into town.

While writing this, I had a closer look at the Open Street Map for the area. If I’d have carried on walking along the main road (past the bus stop), I’d eventually come to Navigation Walk, which leads back to the river, through Wakefield Waterfront. Some signs or maps at the Hepworth would have helped locate the Waterfront. Wakefield Council, please note. It’s a shame the route along the river is blocked by the buildings at Tileyard North.

The local council is supposed to be regenerating the waterfront. From what I saw, it’s got a long way to go.

I really liked the figure in the photo below.

Wakefield Wharf Figure

Figure on the Waterfront by the Hepworth Wakefield

I caught the free bus to Westgate and then went in search of the Old Print Works pub (it’s in the Good Beer Guide). It’s easy to find, down a back street off Westgate. I had a couple of pints of White Lies from the Truth Hurts brewery. 3.4% at £4.40 a pint, pleasant enough. It’s a nice pub, nothing special. I doubt if I’ll ever return (I did, faster than I ever thought I would, on the following Sunday; I left my fleece there). There are two huge TV screens which put me off. The barman was friendly; we put the world to rights. A mention in dispatches.

Next door is Harry’s Bar, a regular in the Good Beer Guide; it’s in this year’s. Sadly, it was closed.

Theatre Royal and Opera House

Theatre Royal and Opera House

My next port of call was the Luis Bar + Fernandes Brewery public house, a half-mile or so walk across town, back towards Wakefield Kirkgate station.

On the walk, I spied the Theatre Royal and Opera House; it’s Grade II listed and still in use.

Opposite is the Unity Hall, also Grade II listed. Built as a Co-operative retail and social hub back in 1876, expanded in 1902. By the 1990s it was in decline and eventually closed. In 2011, a group of people revived it as a community hub (it cost £4 million). Sadly, I have no usable photos of it.

Two interesting buildings.

Following Westgate, I eventually came to the Cathedral. The area around the cathedral is very pleasant, with lots of interesting buildings and alleyways. Though you probably don’t want to be here at night, at the weekend, because of the bars and restaurants.

Then things got boring, lots of pointless shops. I finally found the Luis Bar; it’s on Avision Yard, off the main roundabout on Kirkgate. I’ve written about the Luis Bar in a separate post.

Back at Marsden station, I realised I’d left my fleece at the Old Print Works, not happy. I went back the following Sunday to get it.

Apart from some beef dripping sandwiches at the Luis Bar, I forgot to eat today. Not good. I’m not a fan of drinking on an empty stomach.

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First Published: 24th July 2026

Author: Paul Chappell

Tags: Days-OutDiaryWest-Yorkshire